The afternoon is fading and the sky is a soft pastel blue as we clamber into the open topped Landrover and our guide drives down the bumpy dirt track towards the beach. The tangle of coastal forest trees form a natural tunnel and we need to duck often to avoid being swiped by overhanging branches. The air smells damp and earthy but as we emerge onto the wide stretch of beach sand the clean scent of the sea washes over us. Soon we’re driving along mile after mile of caramel coloured sand at the edge of the ocean – we’re off to find turtles!
I am amazed at the fact that you can drive along a beach for up to two hours in one direction and never come to the end of it. Keep going, our guide tells us, and we’ll end up in Mozambique.
In all the time we were on the beach we came across just two people – two fishermen. I love this about South Africa – you can still find the most beautiful places imaginable, without the crowds.
We do see thousands and thousands of crabs, rushing in great numbers into the sea. Having spent 2 days here already and swum in the wonderful warm waves without encountering these numerous crustaceans in the water, I assume this is an evening event.
After two hours our guide decides to turn back and look further up the coast so we head back, the sky blushing a pretty pink but the air remaining warm. Mosquitos aside, I’m a big fan of subtropical climates. Warm sea, hot days, and no need for jerseys after the sun sets.
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Loggerhead turtle digging a hole for her eggs (Image:ZA Photography. All rights reserved) |
And then we see her. A massive loggerhead turtle high on the beach in the dry sand. We all jump out the Landy and follow our guide who walks right up to the turtle. She’s digging a hole in which to lay her eggs. She seems unfazed by our close proximity. I crouch down and look into her eye. Turtles are strange looking creatures. Beautiful and graceful in water, they’re pretty gnarly up close! She has a strand of goo encrusted with sand hanging from one eye. She also seems to be struggling with her task and then our guide discovers why – she’s missing one of her back legs “Taken by a shark…” he deduces. Sadly she finally gives up and heads back to the ocean, no doubt to try again further up the coast.
Happy to have encountered a turtle up close we head back towards the lodge but just minutes after leaving the site of the loggerhead, the car stops again and the guide jumps out. His eagle eyes have spotted, even in the low light of dusk, a single baby leatherback turtle, circling aimlessly in the sand.
We assumed that his siblings all had a better internal GPS and have long since headed out to sea but this poor chap seems lost. We’re each allowed to hold the small but surprisingly strong little one – he fits in the palm of my hand and those front flippers are amazingly strong for their size! It tickles and I have to be careful not to drop him. Then the guide puts him close to the water’s edge and we watch as he heads directly for the sea and is soon out of sight in the great big sea.
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Baby leatherback turtle heads out to sea |
(Image:ZA Photography. All rights reserved) |
As a large percentage of young turtles never reach maturity, we all wave him off, hoping fervently that this little one will somehow survive the predators and the storms of life and live to a ripe old age.
Stay in Luxury Accommodation at iSimangaliso Wetlands Park
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Makakatana Bay Lodge |
Bhangazi Lodge |
Portfolio Collection offers beautiful luxury accommodation in St Lucia near the iSimagaliso Wetlands Park, a World Heritage Site, at several fine establishments. Turtle drives can be arranged for guests at any of these.
Thonga Beach Lodge
On the pristine Maputaland coast, Thonga Beach Lodge lies in the heart of iSimangaliso World Heritage Park, a magical place with unspoilt beaches, coastal forests and shimmering lakes. Thonga captures the essence of a charming rustic Robinson Crusoe hideaway with individual air-conditioned chalets tucked away in the coastal dune forest, raised on wooden stilts to ensure minimal impact with maximum comfort.
Hluhluwe River Lodge & Adventures
Tucked away in an indigenous forest setting, Hluhluwe River Lodge and Adventures offers comfortably appointed thatched Chalets with private decks. The relaxed main Lodge has a restaurant, lounge and an expansive terrace commanding spectacular views of the Hluhluwe River floodplain.
Kosi Forest Lodge
In the unspoilt Kosi Bay Nature Reserve, this unique lodge offers the unforgettable experience of exploring the tranquillity of the Kosi lakes in guided canoes and on boat trips. Explore the pristine Elephant Coast offering Raffia Palm Forest walks, game viewing at nearby Tembe Elephant Park, seasonal turtle tracking and day trips to Kosi Bay mouth for snorkelling.
Falaza Game Lodge & Spa
Falaza Game Lodge and Spa is a stylish tented Lodge set on an 800-hectare game reserve close to Hluhluwe, bordering the iSimangaliso Wetland Park (St Lucia) World Heritage Site. Reminiscent of adventurous and romantic safaris of days gone by, Falaza offers stylish safari-style en suite tents under shady trees, some newly refurbished.
Makakatana Bay Lodge
An intimate contemporary hideaway Makakatana is the only privately owned Lodge set on the banks of Lake St Lucia, within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park World Heritage Site, Africa’s largest natural marine estuary.
Bhangazi Lodge
Bhangazi Lodge is set in the scenic, tranquil town of St Lucia, surrounded by the iSimangaliso Wetland Park.
Kwalucia Private Safari Retreat
Surrounded by iSimangaliso Wetland Park, this newly built African-themed retreat combines the Zulu spirit with a passion for Africa’s unspoiled wilderness.
Serene-estate Guest House
A totally different experience in St Lucia, bordering the indigenous forest. For lovers of real style, unique architecture and modern design combined with beautiful surroundings and serenity, Serene-Estate is a hidden gem.
St Lucia Kingfisher Lodge (Formerly Kingfisher Lodge)
This original 135 year old Colonial homestead, privately owned and managed by Michelle and Philippe (from Southern France) is set in the heart of the Greater Isimangaliso Wetland Park (St Lucia).
African Ambience
Owner designed and managed, African Ambience is a home away from home, set in tropical gardens with tranquil koi ponds and water features, adjacent to the nature reserve.
Whale Song Guest House
Whalesong is on the Elephant Coast in the tranquil village of St Lucia, in the heart of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. A warm welcome awaits and friendly hosts will ensure a pleasant and relaxing stay.
