Before October last year, I’d never been on a township tour before, but it was always something I had wanted to do. So when the opportunity came up to join Street Scene Tours on their “Bleeters” Township Tour, I made my way down to Durban to be sure I didn’t miss out on the chance to see a side of the city I’d never had the chance to see.
The tour group met tour leaders Richard and Ste outside Cityzen Internet Café in Morningside, where I started to get to know some of the other “Bleeters”, or “Bloggers” and “Tweeters”. Once everyone had piled into the bus, the first stop was one of the oldest houses in Durban on the Berea- the Elephant House, which was named after the elephants that used to frequent the area.
Ghandi's Printing Press
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The tour then made its way to KwaMashu, the township just outside of Durban where we were introduced to the concept of a “Hyper” goat market. We then paid a visit to Gandhi’s printing press, and the house that he lived in next-door. A visit to a traditional healer followed, where tour guests had their fortunes read in the thick smoke of burning mphepo, a culturally significant died herb. (shown left)
With the smell of the burning mphepo still lingering in my nostrils, the bus then took us to Ohlange High School, where we stood in the place where Nelson Mandela voted for the first time, and where Dr. John Dube, the first president of the African National Congress (ANC) set up the first high school for black pupils in South Africa.
After paying respects to Dr. Dube’s grave, we drove further out of town to Mzinaythi Falls, to visit a Rastafarian community that lives nearby. I remember being humbled by how friendly and welcoming the community was, as they invited us to take a look around, and listen to them sing.
Mzinaythi Falls
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On the way back to town we then stopped at Sfiso’s Store, where I kicked back with an Amstel quart on a beer crate, and chatted with some of the locals, while listening to Big Nuz from the indoor jukebox. I distinctly remember feeling like I was travelling again- everything I had experienced that day being so different to from my daily realm of experience.
Chisa Nyama
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At the end of the tour we sat down at one of KwaMashu’s shebeens to drink more beer and eat chisa nyama, or more specifically, braaied steak and pap with chilli relish. At the end of the day, after a quick stop at a local market, I was exhausted, but stoked to have been able to take part in this adventure, and look forward to going on another Street Scene Township Tour.
Very soon.
About Street Scene Tours
Street Scene Tours was started in 2010 to offer local SA citizens & foreign visitors a unique view of South Africa’s most culturally diverse destination & 3rd largest metropolitan, Durban. Brainchild of locals Richard Powell and Sthembiso Mbonambi, the idea was influenced by experiencing alternative tours in Europe. This fascinating way of exploring a city, through the local’s eyes, gives the customer a glimpse into the real inner workings of South African culture without the stereotypical nonsense.
If you want to experience the Big 5 or take a Rickshaw, we’re certain there are countless tour operators to cater for your needs. Google is your friend! If, however, you’re in the mood for adventure, for a walk through Durban’s bustling markets or travelling local style to the real home & heart of Africa’s people, then you’ve come to the right place!
Durban beats. Suburban treats. Hip & happening scenes on the street!
About the Blogger
Jenna van Schoor is a South African writer, editor and social media manager who describes herself as music and travel obsessed.
Her blog can be found at http://saffakidlife.blogspot.com
You can follow her on Twitter
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